Replacing the Nylon Fuel Line

I've put in a new fuel line.

New fuel line in the engine bay

In anticipation of replacing the outer sills, I'd stripped out from the left hand sill, the wiring loom to the rear, the control rod for the rear height corrector (you can read about that HERE) and the  thin rilsan return hose from the rear to the reservoir. 

Height corrector rod under the sill

I left in place the run of four hydraulic pipes as mine had no joins in the middle and so were not easily removed.

Hydraulic pipes under the left hand sill

From the right hand sill I'd loosened the nylon fuel line and the rilsan return hose to the reservoir. I'd undone the brackets that secure the pipe to the face of the sill but it still passed through the bottom of the 'B' pillar. 

Fuel line passing through the base of the 'B' post

In removing the fuel tank and pulling the old and stiffened fuel line out from the tank and through the sill, the fuel line had suddenly 'bowed'  between the sill hole and the 'B' pillar........and suddenly folded on itself. I couldn't see any obvious damage but I'd read that this can be fatal as the pipe may then leak when refitted. So I decided not to take the chance and to replace it.

At the front end of the car the fuel line passes behind the right hand side suspension unit.

The fuel line and return pipe pass behind the suspension

So before I could refit the suspension arm I needed to refit the fuel line....I understand that efi cars have a fuel pump hidden in the sill - so presumably the fuel line is at least two pieces. On a carburettor car, the fuel line is one continuous length - from the bottom of the fuel filter in the tank, to a short rubber section that joins to it the fuel pump on the side of the block. The replacement fuel line I bought is 5 metres long. 

Where they pass behind the front jacking point, the fuel line and return hose are held in a long thin carrier bracket - held in place by a single bolt in the wheel arch. 

Bolt holding the carrier bracket

This is unbolted and pulled out towards the front of the car. Provided all the other little brackets along the length of the sill have been undone, and the black rubber 'pipe' connector on the rear end has been disconnected.......

The return pipe on the erm....'pipe'......

.....the pair of lines should pull right out.

Fuel line removed....

The bracket fingers were surprisingly hard to open. Within each one was a rubber collar. The bracket got a coat of paint and the the collars got a clean.

The new fuel line was coiled and springy and I grappled with it on the garage floor. Lining up the new fuel line to the old I worked out approximately where the bracket needed to be fitted on the new line - allowing excess hose at both ends for final adjustment when fitted.

New fuel line and carrier bracket

The fuel line follows quite a twisty route and it was not until I'd crimped it back in the bracket that I could do a trial fit. The fuel line goes in the top row of clips on the bracket.

Fuel line removed from the carrier bracket

The carrier bracket is slid into the hole in the wheel arch and bolted down. When refitting the black 'pipe' I though the return hose felt a bit loose and couldn't remember what it had been like when I first pulled it off. If it leaked, it would be hidden away behind the jacking point. Although it didn't look as though it originally had a collar around the thin end, I put a Ligarex band around the thin end to reduce the risk of leakage, and I replaced the clip on the fat end with a Mirex buckle.

Mirex buckle on the 'pipe'

Starting forward from the bracket, the fuel line goes up into the wheel arch corner where the suspension cylinder sits, before coming forward in the wheel arch.....

 ........and it then ducks down - held by a bracket - behind the suspension unit. 

The fuel line passes behind the suspension unit

From there it runs under the hollow of the beam across the engine bay.....

Fuel line running under the cross beam

......and emerges through a hole in that beam. The hole is lined with a grommet to stop the fuel line rubbing and wearing. I had a spare grommet for the where the hydraulic hose pass through the radiator bracket and it was just the right size for this particular job. I put some tape over the end of the pipe but otherwise left it loose in the engine bay.

Going backwards from the bracket by the jacking point, the pipes emerge under the front door hinges.

Pipes behind the jacking point

From there, the fuel line and return line run along the sill......

The pipes running past the jacking peg

.......and towards the base of the 'B' post.

Pipes at the 'B' post

Along that route, there are several 'm' shaped double pipe clips and rubber collars to hold the hoses in place. These screw into nuts welded inside the sealed box section.

After the 'B' post the two hoses go their separate ways. The return hose continues to the back end of the sill - supported by a couple of single pipe clips and joins another black rubber 'pipe' in the rear wheel arch. I've not joined it back up yet as I anticipate doing further work in the rear wheel arches.

The return pipe extends to the end of the sill

The fuel line branches off and passes through two offset holes in the sill to end up in the fuel tank gap - under the rear seat. There are grommets to line the holes.

Fuel line to the fuel tank

When I refit the fuel tank i will need to manoeuvre the fuel line again and I will need to be careful not to kink it again. For that reason I've only temporarily fitted the brackets under the sill at the back end of the car. I will need to make sure that I cut the line long enough so that it sits at the very bottom of the fuel stack  and doesn't ride up. I will probably cut and fit the rear end first and then adjust the positioning back towards the front. I've allowed plenty of spare at both ends at the moment.

There is also an outer sealing sleeve over the fuel line where it joins the tank. I will put a couple of Ligarex straps around the ends of this to make sure they are airtight and help the pump maintain suction.

Sealing sleeve over the tank end of the fuel line

Left hand Sill

I did similar work under the left hand sill. I refitted the long control rod for the rear height corrector - with it's replaced threaded end. I cleaned and replaced the nylon eyelets in the clips along sill that guide the rod. There are four eyelets and only three clips. the fourth eyelet goes in a hole in the 'B' post. The rod first pushes into the footwell from the wheel arch, and then needs to duck down (where the height lever would be) into the sill and out into the opening beneath. At first it was tricky to get the rod to flex enough to go into the sill but once it started it slid smoothly and was easily guided through the eyelets - which i greased in advance. 

Eyelet for the height corrector link rod

My friend Peter had made a new knuckle for the end. I liberally coated threads and knuckle with grease  - to prevent the rusting problems that caused it to snap on removal - and I temporarily put a split pin through the linkage. I will need to adjust the linkage once the hydraulics are rebuilt.

Rear height corrector linkage - temporary connection

At the front jacking point, the thin rilsan return pipe was attached to an old offcut of hydraulic pipe and (eventually) threaded forward, from behind the jacking point, and out into the wheel arch. It's held in place along the sill by a few arrow-headed rubber straps that join it to the run of hydraulic pipes.

Rilsan tube behind the jacking point

At this point i haven't refitted the rear wiring loom in the left hand sill. I will probably do that when I fit the new main loom behind the dashboard.