Checking the runout - checking to see whether the front brake discs are warped.
Measuring the Runout with a dial gauge |
Discs - June 2015 |
Another option is to have my current discs grit-blasted. However there was no point in doing this if the discs were
already excessively worn or warped. As a first step therefore, I needed to
carry out some checks on the discs. Brake specifications are listed in
Operation DX. 451-00 in Manual 518 and Operation D.450-00 in volume 1 of Manual
814.
My disks were well within tolerance for disc
thickness and with no obvious cracks, grooves or ‘hot spots’ on the surface. The
other key test that you find in the manual is for disc ‘run-out’ - effectively the degree of any warp in
the disc. Some degree of variance/ warp should probably be expected, but
Citroen specify tolerance for this.
The way to test this is to fit a gauge to a stable surface, with it's needle on the edge of a fitted disc. Rotating the dic reveals the degree of warp or run-out.
First job though, was to replace the studs in the drive shafts. When I’d removed the shafts, half of the studs had come out with their nuts. These studs needed to be reset in the shaft flanges. I double-nutted them on the opposite ends to the stubborn nuts to give me some purchase. The studs were cleaned up on my wire wheel and degreased. I ran a small wire brush over the female threads and followed up with a nylon brush dipped in isopropanol alcohol.
With the studs and threads de-greased, I applied threadlock to each and double-nutted them back on the flanges.
I made sure there were no contaminants (grit or burrs) on the surfaces where the discs would bolt. Now I was ready.
To test run-out I made up a simple rig to hold my dial gauge. I used the template for tool MR.630-52/21 already included in the Manual for this purpose. You can find it in the ‘Special Tools’ pages at the end of the first section of Volume 2 of Manual 814.
The way to test this is to fit a gauge to a stable surface, with it's needle on the edge of a fitted disc. Rotating the dic reveals the degree of warp or run-out.
From the manual: fitting and using the run-out gauge |
First job though, was to replace the studs in the drive shafts. When I’d removed the shafts, half of the studs had come out with their nuts. These studs needed to be reset in the shaft flanges. I double-nutted them on the opposite ends to the stubborn nuts to give me some purchase. The studs were cleaned up on my wire wheel and degreased. I ran a small wire brush over the female threads and followed up with a nylon brush dipped in isopropanol alcohol.
I made sure there were no contaminants (grit or burrs) on the surfaces where the discs would bolt. Now I was ready.
To test run-out I made up a simple rig to hold my dial gauge. I used the template for tool MR.630-52/21 already included in the Manual for this purpose. You can find it in the ‘Special Tools’ pages at the end of the first section of Volume 2 of Manual 814.
Bracket for measuring run-out with a gauge |
Homemade bracket for run-out gauge |
Gauge Fitted |
Relative to the disc, the gauge needs to be fitted
to something that doesn’t move. With a disc in place, the dial gauge bracket was bolted to the top hole where
the parking brake calipers would eventually fit. I didn’t have a suitable bolt
so used one of the caliper bolts – together with a socket as a spacer. The gauge needs to be set up so that it is contact
with the outermost edge of the disc radius on the side of the disc that faces
the wheel.
I rotated the other differential. Simply for ease
of reading, I found the ‘low’ spot and zero-ed the dial. Rotating the disc
again I measured the degree of change in the dial gauge. With the help of my
son Tom, I made a video to show this process in action:
Dial gauge in place on the right hand disc..... |
VIDEO: Testing Disc Brake Run Out (left hand disc)
I had a fair amount of needle judder (due to the gauges sensitivity and the discs roughness), but (as can be seen) the first test consistently gave a disc run out of about 0.22mm (yes – as much as that!). Joking aside, the Citroen specified tolerance is 0.15mm, so that test was a ‘fail’. The remedy is to remove the disc, rotate it 120 degrees clockwise relative to the studs (and so hub flange), refit and test again. That was the time consuming bit…..Allowing for machining tolerances on the mating surfaces of the disc and hub flange, presumably the aim is to see if there is a particular position (of the three possibles) that gives a reading within tolerance. If you find one - fit the disc in that position.
Before
moving the disc, I used chalk to mark the ‘low’ and ‘high’ spots on the disk
and hub for ‘test 1’. ‘Test 2’ gave the same results…..As did ‘test 3’…... The
chalk marks were in broadly the same areas of the disc circumference – i.e. they
moved around relative to a particular stud on the hub - indicating that the
warp was on the disc itself and not a high spot on a particular part of the
hub. That was good news as I didn’t want to have to pull the differential off
again and get it machined.
I did the tests several times - so that’s several
circuits - just to confirm my conclusions: run out on the disc and in excess of
Citroen-specified tolerance. In this situation, the Citroen manual simply says
‘change the disc”, however the specifications also give tolerances for skimming
(grinding) the discs – implying that for some problems, rectification is
possible.
I went through the same process for the disc from
the other side and found that one to be within tolerance – 0.10mm in all three
positions. Just for good measure I then did it all over again trying the discs
on the opposite sides! I arrived at a point where one disc was 0.10 and so
within tolerance, but the other was 0.22mm and so out of tolerance.
Now 0.07mm (out of) out of tolerance didn’t sound a lot to
me! But of course that did represent 0.07mm beyond a given figure – and I guess there has to be some kind of limit. I sought advice on various forums
as to how critical these margins were in practice. I got some helpful answers
but, as you can probably expect, these fell into both the ‘don’t worry’ and ‘do
worry’ camps…..
One option for curing disc problems is to fit
special abrasive brake pads. These are available from Der Franzose and so
probably the other suppliers too.
Franzose say that these are/ were used in Citroen workshops though I’ve not found any reference to their use in in the workshop
manuals as one of the remedies for brake disc run-out problems. To use special pads the car needs to be assembled and
running. I guess that they are a crude way of fixing problems and it would be
difficult to measure the impact on disc run post-use with everything
re-assembled.
"Brake Sharpening" Pads |
In the end I sent my two discs of to my local
engineer with the brake units for skimming and blasting. Decisions were needed:
Assuming that my out-of-tolerance disc is of
uniform thickness and simply slightly warped, then any high/ low spots really
need to be removed from both faces of the disc – to maintain uniformity.
It would have been tempting to remove only enough to bring the disc back within
tolerance – but that would have had the effect of lopping the top half off the
warp ‘hump’ creating a flattened warp peak with a rise and fall both sides.
Would that create new brake problems? To prevent this, the whole 0.22mm
would have to come off. Same on the other side…..that meant reducing the
overall disc thickness by 0.44mm. That was starting to sound like a lot….That
was almost half the permissible wear on a disc – meaning that I was reducing
the life of the disc and hastening the need for the new discs I was trying to
avoid!
More decisions: to give unifom braking performance
on both wheels, should the other in-tolerance disc be skimmed – just to give it
a clean surface like the other disc?
The answers to these questions will have to wait as my engineer couldn't help me: when skimming discs they need to be cut on both sides at the asme time and he didn't have a big enough adaptor to be able to fit the discs to a lathe.
The answers to these questions will have to wait as my engineer couldn't help me: when skimming discs they need to be cut on both sides at the asme time and he didn't have a big enough adaptor to be able to fit the discs to a lathe.
I would downgrade his title from "engineer" to technician.
ReplyDeleteAt the moment I call him 'Sir' :). He is very knowledgable and helpful and his workshop gets a lot of business. I might go back and see if he's got an adaptor yet.
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