I won’t pretend for a moment that this is the definitive
article on DS pipe seals, but if you are a DS owner – and so potentially a home
mechanic - it’s useful to have
some level of understanding of the kinds of hydraulic fixings and seals you
will find on your DS.
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Pipe seals........ |
Download manual 843 or 844 “Hydraulics – Course
Notes” if you’re interested in finding out more about the theory and princples
of Citroen hydraulics. You can find a link to it at the bottom of the list here:
There’ll be a test on Monday.
These are probably the most common and recognisable
pipe fixing you will spot on your DS. These threaded ‘male’ ends are found on
the ends of individual lengths of hydraulic pipe. They are used to fit pipes to
hydraulic components, to junctions, or simply to other lengths of hydraulic
pipe.
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A pipe with flare nut in situ |
The ‘nut’ is the hex nut bit (obviously) and the ‘flare’
is the bulge on the pipe near the pipe end. because of the flare, the nut cannot be slid off the end of the pipe. This can be a problem if the nut is chewed up and you want to replace it.
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Nut and flare |
Citroen flare nuts work by compressing a small,
tubular, rubber (more about that in a minute) seal in the recess between the
flare nut and the item the pipe is joining to. The flare on the pipe end
provides a lip for the hex nut to be screwed against so that the pipe is pushed
into the receiving piece – with the compression provided by the nut then also
compressing the seal around the pipe and into the thread grooves.
Two sizes of nut are usually found on a DS –
defined by the gauge of pipe they are used with:
Flare nuts for 4.5mm pipe – widely used on the DS.
These have a 9mm hex end.
Flare nuts for 6.35mm pipe – only used in a couple
of specific situations/ locations. These have a 12mm hex end.
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Citroen type flare nuts |
When the 9mm ends rust, the hex can become rounded (especially if you try to undo it with a normal spanner) - making the nut very difficult to loosen. Some parts sellers have replacement nuts for 4.5mm
pipes but with a bigger, chunkier 10mm hex ends.
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Flare nuts with 9mm and 10mm hex ends - both do the same job |
Pipe seals.
The compound used to make the seals for use with LHS fluid cars reacts to LHM. Similarly the compound used for LHM seals is not compatible with LHS. In short use the right seals with the right hydraulic system: seals suitable for use with LHS are colour coded red. Seals suitable for use with LHM are colour-coded green. Just to confuse things, Citroen also made some seals (usually 'O' rings) that are colour coded white. These are suitable for use in both LHS and LHM system!
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Red, green and white-marked seals |
What I don’t get is that, if they could make seals that can be used in both systems (and they certainly appear as part numbers as far back as 1966), then why did they bother to introduce LHM-only seals at all? Why not all white?
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From Parts Manual 562 - 1966 |
Tools
The tool of choice for fitting and removing flare
nuts is - a flare nut spanner!
It’s more than an open-ended spanner but less than a ring spanner – but
only a bit less.
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Flare nut spanners |
They have a narrow gap which allows them to be slipped over a pipe, but then have sufficient inner surface area to grip the hex end more than an open-ended spanner would. Less spanner slipping means less rounding……
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The spanner slips over the pipe being fitted |
Flare
Nut Removal
If you plan to completely undo a flare nut, DEPRESSURISE
YOUR HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. If you don’t know how to do that then you probably
shouldn’t be messing with your pipes. Wipe the area around the nut first to remove
any grit and road dirt. The aim is to stop debris falling in the hole once the
nut’s removed - or when the pipe is refitted.
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Clean away dirt before removing |
When in use, it’s all too easy
for the area of a pipe immediately above the hex end, to get knocked and become
bent. It’s important to avoid this. Firstly because it weakens the pipe, and secondly because it makes removal more difficult: it prevents the hex nut sliding up the
pipe - with the risk of thread stripping or
pipe bursting.
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Bent pipe ends make flare nut removal and fitting more difficult |
Flare
Nut Fitting
Whenever you undo a flare nut, it’s good
practice to replace the rubber seal before doing it back up again as the seals
get chewed up and might not provide a good seal second
time around.
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Chewed up seals after removal - note loose slivers |
Before fitting a new seal, it’s also good practice
to check the female receiving thread. This is because thin slivers of the old seal tend to be sliced off when the nut
is fitted and/ or removed and these remain trapped in the threads. These need
to be removed otherwise they can prevent any new seal fitting properly and/ or
may get into the hydraulic circuitry and cause malfunctions and blockages.
The correct way to fit a flare nut is to
push the pipe seal on the pipe end first, leaving about 2mm of pipe end
exposed. This exposed pipe end is to help ensure that the pipe engages
correctly in the receiving aperture.
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Place the seal on the end of the pipe |
I dab the appropriate hydraulic fluid (LHM in my case) on the end of the pipe and the seal before fitting. I also dab a little fluid in the receiving
hole.
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Fitting a pipe with seal |
When the pipe is pushed into the receiving aperture, the exposed pipe end
locates and the seal rides up and partly over the flare.
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The pipe is located straight in the fitting |
Once located, you should be able to tighten the nut
by hand by at least a couple of turns and engage it. If you cannot, it either means that the pipe (and so the nut) is not in straight, or that the pipe and seal have not been pushed far enough into the receiving hole.
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The flare nut should be able to be easily turned by hand |
Once the nut is engaged, use a flare nut spanner to
tighten the nut down.Tightening the flare nut pushes the pipe further into the aperture and compresses the seal in the threads below the nut. It does not have
to be too tight. Citroen say "moderately tight" - 1m.kg (15 ft.lbs). Don’t worry if all the thread of the male part is not
taken up by the female part.
Flanges
and Sealing Plates
Where more than one pipe need to meet in a small
area, there is probably insufficient room to allow for tappings for receiving
flare nuts and then insufficient room to get a flare nut spanner on them to
tighten them anyway. The solution? Terminate the pipes in a flange. The pipe
ends are brazed onto/ into receiving holes in a flat plate (the flange).
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Gear selector pipes terminating on a flange plate |
These flanged pipes are often found to have a green plastic tag (or red for pipes for LHS systems) attached to one of the pipes. This indicates that the pipework joins at the flange have been pressure tested.
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"Pressure Tested OK" tag on a flanged pipe |
The receiving holes continue through the flange.
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Holes continue through the flange - 3 bolt holes and 5 pipe holes in this case |
These pipe holes will marry to orifices on the receiving
part or block. But how to provide a hydraulic seal? Solution: a
‘sealing plate’ is used. These plates have holes that align to the fluid passageways - but which have a bigger diameter. Into these, sealing ‘O’ rings are placed.
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Sealing plate with 'O' rings. Note the white markings |
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Sealing plate on the CRC |
Original seals are marked in white on one side and are meant to be fitted so that the white side faces towards the source of pressure. I'm note sure why. perhaps the profile is not circular and they have a subtle shape that resists leakage? Anyway, modern replacement seals don't carry a white mark.
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Original ring seals orientated according to hydraulic flow
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The plate then goes between the flange and the receiving part. The thickness of
the sealing plate is less than the thickness of the ‘O’ rings – meaning the 'O' rings are compressed when the flange is bolted down – so creating that all
important hydraulic seal around each hole.
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Flange and sealing plates on gearbox pipe |
Other Types of Seal
The other common type of seal you are likely to find is the kind used to seal a hydraulic sphere. These are a form of 'ring seal'. In this application they are fitting in the bottom and inner circumference of the female threaded/ receiving end, but are compressed down and out by screwing the sphere on to form a seal.
As well as for sphere sealing, theses 'crush' seals are also found inside various hydraulic components - such as the centrifugal regulator.......
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Again, note the white-marked side on this original seal
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.......and the pressure regulator.
You also find ring seals inside various components to seal between moving parts - such as on the inner circumference of your brake cylinders.....
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Sealing ring in brake cylinder |
........the clutch cylinder......
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Ring seal in the clutch cylinder |
......and in the centrifugal regulator (again).
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Ring seal in a groove in the centrifugal regulator |
Some ring seals fit into grooves in the outer circumference of components. Such as the CRC unit.
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Ring seal on a cap on the CRC Unit |
In this instance, they seal the caps - so a non-moving application.
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